Guest View: Exploring Istanbul’s culture

I’m no foreigner to traveling. It’s my hobby, and I’m grateful to have had the opportunity to travel the world. It started with Paris 10 years ago, and this fondness for spontaneous excursions took me through Rome, Amsterdam and London. And more recently, Tel Aviv and Madrid.

In the decade I’ve been traveling, I’ve noticed there are certain aspects people might unconsciously equate with a country. Stereotypes, if you will, that derive from that country’s portrayal in the media.

Take the city of Paris as an example. I’ve seen that place depicted in movies as this enchanting playground for romantics. A city of lights, with glamorous fashionistas that saunter down paths with berets and flashy heels that noisily clomp against cobblestone paths. Mimes. Baguettes. Snails. Think about how Rome is portrayed, too – a fantasy getaway for lovers, a place for wine, gelato and suave men with over-exaggerated accents, lustrous manes and perfect jawlines that could cut through cheese (and not just any cheese, mind you; we’re talking about real, firm Italian pecorino toscano). Or maybe I just watch a ton of romantic movies. But anyway.

My point? Stereotypes don’t define anything. Of course, this is a known fact. Stereotypes or how others perceive a certain culture don’t entirely make up what a country is.

Then again, it depends on how you look at it. At least the way some places are portrayed gives us a sense of what to expect. I can recall knowing what to see, and truthfully, what to expect, when I had the chance to go to Paris a long time ago, like the iconic Eiffel Tower or the Arc de Triomphe. And before I went to London, I already had visions of Buckingham Palace and high tea.

But let’s talk about Turkey. Before I went to Turkey at the end of March, I seriously had no idea what to expect, or even where to start in terms of researching places to see. I mean, nothing had immediately struck my mind when I first thought of Turkey. As far as I was concerned, there didn’t seem to be any sort of major cultural icon or stereotype I could ride off of. Call this situation whatever you like, whether it’s ignorance or a bad case of teenage apathy on my part. I had asked people around me beforehand what they thought of Turkey, and I got varying responses, including:

“I immediately think of Istanbul. This city has such an amazing history. I automatically think of Turkish carpets and rugs. I think of food that has amazing spices. Turkey to me is more conservative in dress and etiquette, and this is reflected in the culture. Turkish culture and ideas are a true mix of Western and Eastern values and ideas.”

To: “Spicy food. I think of Ottoman Turks. Deserts, like, really dry ... and I think of street markets. I think of spices, because of the trade in spices there. I think of curry, I don’t know why. Istanbul. Isn’t there a palace there?”

To: “The only thing I associate with Turkey is its location in South America.”

OK. Good start, good start. (By the way, Turkey straddles Europe and Asia, not South America.)

Back to my whole not-knowing-what-to-expect mindset. Like I said, when it came to knowing where to start and initially understanding what Turkey had to offer, I won’t deny I was totally driving in the dark. But in that sense, dare I say I wanted to keep an open mind? After a week in Istanbul, here’s what I learned.

Istanbul, as I’ve seen, is a mix of the Middle East and the Western World, mapped with a “Europe” side and an “Asia” side that’s divided by the Bosphorus Strait. Walking through the city, where I spent most of my week, it was clear to me that it’s modern and full of life. Of course, this makes for a good balance with its unique traditions and historical sights, from the Blue Mosque to a smaller piece of Byzantine history, such as the Basilica Cistern, an ancient, underground reservoir dating back to 532.

There’s plenty of truth in how much hospitality and good will the Turks give off. Take a walk around Istanbul. Even if (and especially) you come across as a tourist, locals will come up to you, eager to help in any way they can. They’ll ask you where you’re from. Humor them a little, and give an answer. Many will immediately respond, rattling off the bit of English they’ve got up their sleeve ... or Italian. Or Korean. Or German.

“Oh, we’re from Italy.”

“Buonasera!”

“We’re from China.”

“Ni hao!”

Or, in my case ...

“I’m from Chicago.”

“Ah, hello! Welcome, welcome!”

The simple greetings and affectionate how-do-you-dos might come off as a small feat. But think of it as considerate – taking the initiative to give a welcome to different people of different cultures. It’s the warm greeting, the arm around your shoulder, the fond touch, their friendly address – “Hello brother,” “hello friend.” Granted, 8 times out of 10 they’re sweet-talking you to drum up some business for their family’s shop, but hey, it’s the thought that counts.

On my first night in Istanbul, I ran into a man by the name of Taner Kaymaz, a Turkish local with a major in tourism, who brought up an intriguing point about what makes the Turks special.

“Here in Turkey, we know a lot about other countries,” he said. “Like, where they are, which language they speak or what kind of people they are. We know a lot about those. I think it’s because of our history. Because the Ottoman Empire was in Arabia, the Arabian Peninsula. They were in Africa, Northern Africa, and in Europe, Asia. They were everywhere, and there were so many people living under the empire of Ottoman. So, I think that’s why we know a lot about them, because it’s in our history books, true or false, but we learn something about those people.”

I think that when it came to the people, I was in good hands. The Turks embrace their own culture and learn about others, as well. They help out the people who are curious about their country and way of life. They aren’t hesitant to talk about the places to go, the things to do. In fact, there’s a bit of a tour guide in each of them.

And if there was something else I learned? Explore. Sure, exploring is a total no-brainer for those who travel. But that’s the best part. The spontaneity, the excitement that comes out of going someplace and not knowing what to expect. Getting lost. Satisfying that curiosity. In that sense, when it comes to traveling, strict itineraries aren’t always needed. But if I could throw a few recommendations out there ...

The Blue Mosque is a definite must-go. Even if you’re not of Islam faith, there’s a section available to visitors who can go inside and see the beautiful interior, open at certain times throughout the day when prayer isn’t in session. And I was totally up for losing myself in the nooks and crannies of the Grand Bazaar, an elaborate maze where you can buy anything from amulets and intricate Turkish-style tea seats to, as you might see, “the most genuine fake watches.” Go to the spice market.

Vendors have rows of containers filled with heaps of spices and tea, and, of course, the one and only “Turkish Delight.” You might recall the references to this in “The Chronicles of Narnia,” and yes, I wholly admit to feeling like Edmund while scarfing this down. Nuts held together by gel, cut into cubes, and dusted with powdered sugar have become a huge selling point in Turkey.

And since we’re on the topic of food, take this into consideration – kabobs aren’t everything. Sure, it’s still a huge part of their cuisine and a more familiar dish, but let’s put them down and expand a little. If I could give one pointer about food, it’d be go to a lokanta – a self-service type of place, almost like a cafeteria. Lokantas dish out different kinds of comfort food from pilaf to lamb to manti – dumplings in a yogurt and mint sauce. Dessert cafes let you indulge in perhaps what they claim to be the best baklava – nuts sweetened with syrup sandwiched in between crisp phyllo dough. And while you’re at some well-known places like Hafiz Mustafa (nudge, nudge), do yourself a favor. Fill up on some kaymak, a generous mound of clotted cream. Dousing this mound in honey is highly encouraged. (And if there’s honeycomb, you’ve just hit the jackpot.)

I’ve seen Turkish cuisine have a big emphasis on ingredients like cheese and especially yogurt. Traditional breakfasts are comprised of small dishes of fresh cheese, plain yogurt, olives, cucumbers and tomatoes. Small servings of eggs (menemen is a dish I’d like to highlight – scrambled eggs made red with tomatoes and peppers) go along with that, too. And tea. Dude, you can’t forget tea. They’re pretty big on it.

Overall, Turkey ranks pretty high on best destinations lists on TripAdvisor or World of Wanderlust. Istanbul was even up with Madrid and Tokyo as candidates for the host of the 2020 Olympics. I can’t speak for older people, but why aren’t some people around my age familiar with Turkey compared to other cities?

I don’t know, actually. Might I add, when someone heard I was going to Turkey, their initial reaction was a slightly surprised look, along with an: “Oh. Be careful over there. Be safe.”

“Yeah, Turkey has a bad reputation,” Kaymaz said. “I think most Americans constitute Turkey as a country in the Middle East. Turkey has a bad reputation, but I think it’s because people don’t know about Turkey. As you can see here, in Turkey, Turkey is much more modern, or more liberal than the other Islamic countries, because it’s a secular country, that’s in our constitution.”

Of course, there’s more to Turkey than its reputation or how some may perceive its culture. I’ll always adhere to my belief that every country has some sort of story or element that makes it unique. Turkey’s got this special position that gives it a little of everything from the Western world and the Middle East, and that’s something that distinguishes it, along with the amiable people and its culture.

I won’t deny I didn’t know what to expect going into this, and even now, I still don’t have a total, in-depth, extensive understanding of Turkey. But I’m getting there. Diving into a whole new culture requires an open mind, and I’ve learned not to rely on common stereotypes or what’s flaunted in travel books and guides to write a good itinerary. After all, there’s always something hidden within its people that tourists have yet to explore and find. It could be the very thing that makes it special. A diamond in the rough, if you will. But I think I’ve spewed out a ton of clichés already.

• Shayne Chammavanijakul is a student at St. Charles North High School. She enjoys writing, traveling and being with friends. Write to her at editorial@kcchronicle.com.