Nothing makes a full-grown adult feel like a kid again quite like brinner - having breakfast at dinner time.
The Junction Eating Place in DeKalb really delivers the feeling in a diner with a train-themed atmosphere, serving up childlike memories with more than adult-sized portions.
The colossal omelette lived up to its name. It featured bacon, sausage and ham along with eggs and mushrooms. There was meat in every bite, which dominated the dish, not a bad thing if you love well-cooked ham, bacon and sausage carrying the flavor.
The steak and eggs were also delicious. It wasn’t overly seasoned, which with sirloin isn’t an issue given its natural bold flavor. The juicy runoff from the steak also took the eggs up a level, as any good steak and eggs dish should.
Both entrees were served with hash browns and pancakes. The hash browns split our dining party – one person thought they were great, the other thought they were not crispy enough and under-seasoned, looking more like home fries than true hash browns.
But there was no division caused by the pancakes. Everything about them was perfect. The flavor tasted like the kitchen added a little extra vanilla into the batter, a great touch. They were the large, thin types and weren’t heavy at all. And they were served with a side of warm syrup, a very nice flourish.
And while those dishes made adults feel like kids, the actual kids were more than satisfied by the kids’ meals. The hot dog was served differently, cut lengthwise and served on a thin, sub-style roll. That makes it much easier to eat, and eliminates the debate about it being a sandwich, since served in this manner, it clearly is.
The hamburger was very large, though the little one it went to did not like the bun. An adult who sampled the roll thought he was crazy, but you never know with little one’s tastes. The grownup found the butter or egg bun added nicely to the burger.
The last child ordered a fish plate, which came out with two perfectly fried cod fillets and a bunch of fries. The fish really was perfectly done without any oily taste as can sometimes happen.
In fact, between the quality of that fish and the way we were spying on other people’s choices, the adults at the table regretted not getting an appetizer of onion rings. Given the quality of how well everything looked and tasted in the fried food department, it really seemed like a lost opportunity.
Throw in the diner-like vibes of 1950s and ’60s classic songs setting the mood, along with a friendly staff, plus a model train running along a track above the patrons, and it’s a fun atmosphere serving up fun foods.
• The Mystery Diner is a Daily Chronicle employee who reports on their experience at local restaurants. The diner’s identity is not revealed to the restaurant staff before or during the meal. If the Mystery Diner cannot recommend the establishment, we will not publish a story.
IF YOU GO
WHAT: The Junction Eating Place
WHERE: 816 W. Lincoln Highway, DeKalb
PHONE: 815-758-5441
INFORMATION: www.junctioneatingplace.com