Uncorked: Mar de Frades Albariño a gem of the Atlantic

A blue boat appears on the label of a perfectly chilled Mar de Frades Albariño.

It’s a clever way to tell when the beguiling Spanish white has reached proper drinking temperature, and denotes an homage to the history of the region.

Albariño has pronounced aromas that range from lemon, lime, grapefruit all the way to gardenia blossoms, eucalyptus and mint. Mango, passion fruit, grapefruit, lemon lime, sea salt and an iron-like minerality are all part of its flavor profile. Sometimes, there’s even a white pepper note hiding under all that, while the wine is crisp, refreshing and a solid mouthful without having any influence of oak.

Its charm is in the hidden aromas and flavors – and winemaker Paula Fandiño has captured it well for Mar de Frades since 2007.

“Albariño is the most important wine for us, we use indigenous yeast to protect the character of albariño because we don’t want that to change,” Fandiño said. “There are lemon, white flowers and orange zest flavors. The wine finishes with a volume that sits on the palate.”

Mar de Frades Albariño 2022 ($27) was made in the region of Rías Baixas, where the variety thrives. Over 95% of the region’s vines are planted to albariño, and the vineyard soil is predominantly comprised of granite, which Fandiño said “is our mother stone.”

With its location in northwest Spain, the influence of the Atlantic Ocean has defined what takes place during the growing season. As the Cantabrian Mountain range opens up to let in direct breezes from the Atlantic Ocean, the misty, cool conditions allow for the grapes to retain their acidity. The adage is that albariño grows best where it can “see the sea.” That definitely holds true with Mar de Frades, as the winery’s name translates to “Sea of Friars,” an homage to the monks who arrived on the coastal shores by boat as they disembarked on their journey toward Santiago de Compostela.

Yet, as conditions warm during the growing season, humidity and water are hazardous for grape clusters. They can lead to trouble with fungal and mold issues, a problem mitigated by a system Fandiño and Mar de Frades devised for the vines that allows air to pass through and dry off the leaves.

“We use a pergola system to grow our grapes,” Fandiño said. “It allows the vines to be very well adapted to the temperature, weather and humidity.”

Albariño was made for this time of year: the dog days of summer.

When temperatures soar and a relentless sun bears down on skin ready to be caressed by flannel brought on by cooler fall temperatures, albariño is the perfect elixir to squeeze the best out of what’s left of summer.

• James Nokes has been tasting, touring and collecting in the wine world for several years. Email him at jamesnokes25@yahoo.com.

TASTING NOTES

Areté Blanc de Noirs Willamette Valley 2019 ($33.99): Deep golden color in the glass, pronounced red apple on the nose. Red apple, a beam of citrus run through the mid-palate, and brioche hints add dimension. “With sparkling wine, you can’t be scared of acidity,” Areté and Iris winemaker Aaron Lieberman said. “There’s grapefruit flavors, brioche and a wonderful acidity. There’s a significant amount of pinot gris in it. Our site is cool, and that’s super important to what we are doing.”

Gran Moraine Yamhill-Carlton Chardonnay 2019 ($55): Winemaker Shane Moore produced the top chardonnay for this report. It’s a wine bursting with acidity; Moore is never shy about enamel-cracking wines, and is rewarded for it here. Granny Smith apple, buttery toast, almond and sea salt make for a compelling wine.

Iris Willamette Valley Chardonnay 2018 ($39.99): “Chardonnay in Oregon is pretty awesome,” Lieberman said, adding it’s often the last wine harvested from the Iris vineyard, and “even with that, it still has a hint of greenness.”

Iris Willamette Valley Pinot Gris 2020 ($17.99): Pear on the nose, trending a bit warmer with the fruit flavors, maybe tapping into some warm red apple or pineapple flavors. A light salty, mossy note underlies the fruit. There’s a little fizz on the wine, which Lieberman said is due to the wine being bottled with “a fairly high CO2 concentration,” adding he is “looking for liveliness on the tongue.”

King Estate Willamette Valley Brut Cuvee 2018 ($38): There’s red apple, peach and soft brioche bread flavors on a wine with fruit grown in biodynamic vineyards and made in the traditional method.

King Estate “Domaine” Willamette Valley Pinot Gris 2021 ($27): A fuller-bodied mouthfeel for a pinot gris, with lemon, roasted pear and graham cracker pie crust flavors. There’s still a layer of acidity that keeps the wine fresh, and produces a mouthwatering effect.

Marshall Davis Estate Chardonnay 2019 ($40): The Marshall Davis family has just eight acres in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, but made one of the top chardonnays tasted in this report. There’s a depth of flavor in the green apple and peach that is supported by a green herbal and forest-floor note. Hints of green tea and briny ocean water come around on the finish.