Mystery Diner in St. Charles: The Graceful Ordinary a welcoming destination

A poetic undercurrent is conveyed by the name of a new restaurant opened by a chef who earned acclaim in Chicago before launching his own venture in St. Charles – The Graceful Ordinary. The reimagined building boasts expansive windows and balcony seating jutting out high above the eastern edge of the Fox River for dramatic views.

From aesthetics to the menu, the experience begs to be called anything but ordinary. The former bank’s interior has been transformed into a chic space that makes a design statement, from the bold wallpaper to the tall tapers burning on every table and in candelabra near the open kitchen.

The website notes “ordinary” was the Colonial term for town tavern, and chef Chris Curren and wife Megan christened their enterprise “graceful” to reflect the elevated concept they term “refined rustic.” In keeping with the Colonial tie, the kitchen specializes in cooking over a wood-burning hearth, the seasonal dishes reflecting multiple American regional styles.

Our server was superlative and pampered us, satisfying our curiosity about various dishes and the makeover of the former bank, where the only withdrawal these days refers to craving a favorite dish.

In the “snacks” section, we opened with an outstanding octopus carpaccio, which tasted as good as it looked, with thin slices of octopus accented with delicate lemon puree dollops, chili oil and pickled mustard seeds.

It was accompanied by a lovely artisan loaf made in-house, crusted with Gruyere and a hint of garlic oil.

My companion picked the Cajun marinated pork chop, with Hoppin’ John (a luscious mix of rice and black-eyed peas), lemon caper butter sauce, and herb salad. The flavoring was complex and not at all spicy hot.

“Tasty, thick, tender and juicy – best chop I’ve had this year,” he said.

I ordered the halibut, served with a delicious mild yellow curry and accompanied by smoked cipollini onion and baby bok choy.

We added a side of the crispy red potatoes that proved addictive in a creamy, herb-Parmesan sauce.

We couldn’t resist trying a signature dessert, the butterscotch pot de creme, with sea salt caramel, fresh-whipped cream and the garnish of a crispy Pecan Florentine. We took our server’s suggestion to crumble the cookie into the softly set, pudding-like treat.

In addition to an inviting bar separated from the dining room, the interior includes two spaces for private gatherings, and an intimate lounge with comfy furniture, fireplace and a mounted stag as sentinel.

From the dining room’s flickering candles to the kitchen’s open flame, The Graceful Ordinary sets a bright stage on the culinary scene.

• The Mystery Diner is a newsroom employee at the Kane County Chronicle. The diner’s identity is not revealed to the restaurant staff before or during the meal. The Mystery Diner visits a different restaurant and then reports on the experience. If the Mystery Diner cannot recommend the establishment, we will not publish a review.

IF YOU GO

WHAT: The Graceful Ordinary

WHERE: 3 E. Main St., St. Charles

PHONE: 331-235-5803

INFORMATION: www.thegracefulordinary.com