Down the Garden Path: Growing climbing roses is easier than you think

Have you ever wanted to have a climbing rose on your property, but thought it wasn’t possible?

Perhaps you were worried about the size. Perhaps you were concerned that you had to take it down in the winter. Perhaps you were concerned about training it.

To be successful in growing roses in Midwest gardens, keep in mind some basic considerations, such as plant selection and an understanding of potential disease and insect problems.

Roots matter

First, I picked an “own-root” rose that was zone 4 hardy. Why is this important? If you look around, you will see in many yards a red rose that only blooms once. That rose is often the variety “Dr. Huey.” It is probably the most common rose in northern areas because it is used as rootstock for roses.

Roses can be grown on their own roots or they can be grafted, which means that the rose you want has been joined to a rootstock that is stronger. Unfortunately, “Dr. Huey” does not rebloom, and it’s very thorny. This is why it is important when buy roses to ask whether it is own-root or grafted. If it is grafted, ask if the stock it is grafted on is hardy in our zone. The seller should know. Better yet, seek out an own-root rose.

Selection samples

A great example of a rose that is not too big, easy to train, and everblooming is a Canadian climber called Quadra. In my yard, it is trained around a telephone pole, but it also grows beautifully on a trellis.

There are other roses that are widely available that can be used this way. One is Dublin Bay, a highly regarded rose. This one I grew against the base of a mortar fireplace. Have a look at Kordes Honeymoon Arborose if you like white. Watch out for popular but huge roses like New Dawn or Eden; while lovely, they are too big for most yards.

Disease resistance is an important consideration, so look for roses with an “Earth Kind” designation or its European equivalent, ADR. These roses are easy to grow and disease resistant – which usually means no fungicide applications will be needed.

Pruning properly

Another bonus of climbing roses is that they may need a few seasons in the garden before pruning is necessary and pruning often can be limited to just removing winter-damaged wood. Because climbers are repeat bloomers, they are pruned in early spring. If you do prune, University of Illinois Extension recommends reducing the side shoots or laterals to 3 to 6 inches to get more blooms. In addition, training canes to grow more horizontally encourages the growth of bloom-producing side shoots.

Care tips

Roses need a minimum of five hours of direct sunlight. If planted in a shadier spot, it may not bloom as well. Roses also require about an inch of water per week during the growing season. If there is no rain in the forecast, you’ll want to give them a good drink. Proper mulching, avoiding the base of the canes, can help with moisture retention. Rose fertilizer also is a good idea to apply in the spring, around May 1, and then every four to six weeks with the final feeding in mid-August. As they are “heavy feeders”, you’ll want to use one specifically for roses because too much nitrogen can prevent blooming.

To learn more about choosing and caring for roses, visit extension.illinois.edu/roses or contact your local Master Gardener Help Desk at go.illinois.edu/HorticultureDKK