‘It felt like the payoff versus the risk was too great’ Despite eased restrictions, Wheaton brewery remaining to-go only for now

WHEATON – Ben Sampson offers multiple perspectives on the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic.

Co-owner of Dry City Brew Works in Wheaton with his wife, Jessica, the Sampsons had to adjust their business model when restrictions on bars and restaurants were put in place. A full-time pharmacist, Ben has been on the front lines for COVID-19 testing and vaccinations.

So when Region 8, which includes DuPage County, moved to Tier 1 mitigation measures last week, allowing limited indoor dining in bars and restaurants, the Sampsons did not rush to reopen their doors. Dry City Brew Works, in a Facebook post Jan. 26, said that “after a lot of thought and careful consideration,” they would remain to-go only until the weather warms up and they can serve on an outdoor patio.

“We have a lot of friends and families who have contracted the virus. I don’t feel comfortable putting people at risk,” Jessica said. “It is an extremely difficult business decision. I don’t judge anybody for opening. This is something we have to do for multiple reasons.”

It’s the kind of decision the Sampsons surely didn’t think they’d ever have to make when they opened Dry City Brew Works just over six years ago in November 2014. Ben, who has a background in chemistry as a pharmacist, was homebrewing and, along with Jessica’s parents, decided to do a brewpub. A restaurant was not a viable route, but they could brew and opened the brewery at 120 N. Main St. in Wheaton.

Dry City does not have a specific style of beer that it’s known for, and it does a lot of experimentation, but it maintains a number of standards and has eight beers on tap at a time. A favorite they’re now featuring is a Stout-Man, which is their imperial stout. Scotch Ale is one they brew throughout the year.

Known for collaboration with other residents, Dry Brew, in pre-pandemic times, had a rotating collection of art work on its walls featuring local artists. Live musicians perform on Fridays and Saturdays. Dry City doesn’t have a kitchen, but has always been “bring your own food,” and the past two years has hosted food trucks and pop-up events.

“That is a big part of what we are,” Jessica said. “In the community, we are known that we like to partner with everybody. As far as beer, we have something for everybody.”

About a year ago, Dry City expanded from two to four full-time employees besides the Sampsons and then the pandemic hit. They’re now at three full-timers, a bartender who also does social media, a brewer and an assistant brewer.

“We literally added and then everything blew up,” Jessica said.

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Owners Ben and Jessica Sampson will be continuing their carry-out beer service at Dry City Brew Works in Wheaton and have chosen to keep their indoor seating area closed despite the COVID-19 restrictions being lifted. (Sandy Bressner - sbressner@shawmedia.com)

The Sampsons had to adjust to a new supply and demand schedule. The to-go business, about 30% to 40% of business before the pandemic, is now 100%, with customers taking home 64-ounce “growlers” and 32-ounce “howlers.”

Dry City usually sells beer in glasses and pints to consume on-site, but now the Sampsons are ordering pallets of growlers at a time that last a couple of months instead of their previous half-year shelf life.

Outdoor seating throughout the summer allowed for close to 60 customers. The city got Dry City a tent heater, but the Sampsons shut it down in October in expectation of looming restrictions.

“It’s been a learning curve how to adjust to new regulations and a new way of doing things, a constant learning,” Jessica said. “Every time there have been changes, we’ve had to pivot. It’s been a challenging year.”

Dry City was able to get a loan through the Paycheck Protection Program in April, but with the requirement that it be used within eight weeks, the money is long gone.

“I would say our monthly revenue is about the same, but the struggle has been our staff has doubled,” Jessica said. “On paper, it doesn’t seem like we’re doing much worse but we are struggling more, which has been a challenge when applying for grants. They want to see proof on paper that net sales are down as a percentage and I can’t show that. The sales are not down, but the money we are making and getting to keep has been a challenge. Some loans we can’t even attempt to apply for.”

Still, the Sampsons did not feel that now was the time to reopen their doors, for multiple reasons.

Safety, for one. Another is a practical concern. With such a small staff, if a bartender gets the virus, there is no backup, and no payroll flexibility to add another person. One of Dry City’s employees has a father-in-law with leukemia, and they don’t want to bring COVID-19 home to them. The Sampsons also worry about a potential shutdown should a customer come in and test positive the next day.

“People need to be vigilant and safe and get this virus under control and the safest way for us to do that is protect our staff and customers.”

—  Jessica Sampson, co-owner of Dry City Brew Works in Wheaton

“It’s just the safer thing to do,” Jessica said. “I feel personally in my gut that indoor dining, it’s not the safest thing to do right now. People need to be vigilant and safe and get this virus under control, and the safest way for us to do that is protect our staff and customers.

“It felt like the payoff versus the risk was too great for the limited amount of people we’d have here. If we followed the regulations, it’s five to six tables. It’s not worth it, and we can’t afford to have another person on staff as backup.”

The Sampsons insist that their politics have nothing to do with the decision, and 99% of the feedback has been positive.

“We have so many wonderful regulars. We would be heartbroken if they got COVID while they are here,” Jessica said. “Overwhelmingly, the feedback has been positive, that we’re listening to the science. They say thank you for caring.”

Ben, who did testing at a drive-thru clinic in the early months of the pandemic, went back to retail pharmacy in September and is now working with the county to start with vaccinations.

“I’ve seen a lot of firsthand things, not only people not wearing masks, but seeing how people act in public normally. That enters into our judgment,” he said. “Everybody needs to stay safe.”

The Sampsons’ plan is to open their patio again when temperatures warm, unless there is a massive influx of COVID-19 vaccinations.

“Our plan is to make it to at least April,” Jessica said. “As soon as it’s conducive to go outside, we’ll go outside. Indoor seating, I honestly don’t think that’s happening until late summer or later.”

In the meantime, the Sampsons are doing what they can to support friends in the community. During the summer, Dry City did pop-up events in which local artists could display their work in the front room. Musicians still play from a loft in the back bar area, well off the ground and wearing masks.

“When people do the growler pickup, we tell people ahead of time we have this guy here working for tips, show him some love,” Ben said. “We are trying to find anyway to support that aspect of our business and bring people’s attention to it. It’s a challenge. We wish we could do more.”