Uncorked: Italian winemakers share inspired approaches

Alessandro Marini found his winemaking voice in France.

The Tenuta Luce winemaker, an Italian native, is behind some of the most thrilling wines made in all of Tuscany. His Italian roots run deep, and, like Podere Sapaio owner Massimo Piccin, he wants to showcase a wine culture measured in centuries.

“As a wine lover, I believe in tradition, history and experience,” Piccin said. “When it comes to a wine I like, it has usually been made for many years. At the beginning, the wine is like a teenager. There’s some frustration, but there’s also a lot of energy and dreams. This gives us the energy to go and imagine the future. A winery is like an old person with a lot of stories to tell and worldly experience.”

Even though Marini’s worldly experience featured a master’s degree in Bordeaux, France, seven years working at surrounding French wineries and a stint in California’s Carneros AVA, Marini yearned to be closer to his friends and family.

When the Frescobaldi family, owners of Tenuta Luce, had an available opportunity, Marini knew it was time to return home.

“When I got the call from Frescobaldi, I was looking to come back to Italy,” Marini said. “I grew up professionally in Bordeaux, it’s where I learned the feel for how to make wine. I learned things that are not written in a book. Making wine is an experience and feeling. My time in France created my base.”

It’s a strong base from which he has crafted a pair of outstanding wines. Tenuta Luce Toscana IGT 2020 ($135) had blueberry and blackberry flavors. There were pine needles and balsamic notes with silky tannins, a fresh acidity and plenty of years left for those who want to let the wine further develop in the cellar.

A blend of sangiovese and merlot, Tenuta Luce Lucente 2020 ($25.99) is a glimpse into what Luce has to offer. There was cherry, blue fruit and eucalyptus on the nose. Fresh cherry and strawberry flavors combined with soft tannins to make it a wine ready to be enjoyed upon release.

Like Tenuta Luce, Piccin had a pair of wines he crafted that showcase the unique Italian terroir of which he is so fond.

Podere Sapaio “Volpolo” Bolgheri DOC 2021 ($36) had smoky black cherry, dried violets, rosemary, currant and a touch of balsamic on the finish, all on a framework of finely structured tannins that lend to the future being bright for this Super Tuscan blend.

Podere Sapaio Toscana A IGT 2019 ($94) was a brilliant Bordeaux blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon, 20% petit verdot and 10% cabernet franc with a backbone of high acidity and firm tannins. There was blueberry, umami, thyme, sage and a touch of anise. It was delicious in its youth, but has a long life ahead of it for those willing to let it sit in a cellar.

“The game is not to just blend in what is the best tasting in Sapaio,” Piccin said. “The point is to blend the different characteristics and to have a complex wine with aging potential. Sometimes, what is more pleasant right now might not be in the next moment.”

For a wine culture that stretches back generations, both winemakers have chronicled their moments in delicious and impressive fashion.

WINE MARKET TASTING NOTES

FOR TONIGHT – Luke, “The Companion,” Red Wine, Columbia Valley Wahluke Slope, Washington, 2020 ($20): Blackberry, plum, Christmas spice and potpourri on the nose, blackberry, plum, dark chocolate and anise flavors. Excellent with grilled meats and any meat-based, weeknight dinner.

“There’s a synergy between the cabernet sauvignon and syrah,” winemaker and owner Thomas Vogele said. “There’s a lush bacon fat sweetness from the syrah and then the tension and texture of cabernet and merlot that pull it all together for me.”

54% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot, 14% syrah, 3% petite verdot, 1% cabernet franc and 1% malbec.

FOR FRIDAY NIGHT – Joseph Phelps, Freestone Vineyards, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, 2021 ($70): A pronounced perfume on the nose of black cherry, granite and dried roses. The round mouthfeel is very plush. Black cherry is the star here in terms of flavor, but there’s just enough pine straw and forest floor to round things out before they get too sweet. A medium body with layers of fruit and forest floor flavors.

FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT – Indaba, Sauvignon Blanc, Cape Winelands South Africa 2022 ($12.99): Green apple and pineapple on the nose. Sleek and crispy with hints of green herbs over green melon and pineapple flavors.

“What’s really cool about South Africa is there’s no real featured varietal,” winemaker Clayton Christians said. “We just make very good wines.”

FOR THE CELLAR – Appassionata, “Andante,” Oregon 2017 ($135): Amazingly elegant, different and cool all at once. Soy sauce, roasted mushroom and black fruit flavors on the nose. Just a little reduction adds so much to the flavor profile; there’s a brine layer of olive tapenade sitting just beneath the beautiful red and black fruit flavors. There are hints of spice with well-integrated tannins.

“I’m only happy with a handful of the wines I’ve ever made,” said winemaker Tim Malone, who jammed with John Mayer when they both studied music at Berklee. “I hope to never settle on being content.”

• James Nokes has been tasting, touring and collecting in the wine world for several years. Email him at jamesnokes25@yahoo.com.