Uncorked: Argentina’s wine gems shine at various price points

Malbec put Argentina on the winemaking map.

The grape thrives there and shows a vast array of flavors. Red fruits, black fruits, wild game, smoky cherry, iron, leather, ground spices, tobacco and ground herbs are several of its finest traits.

“Malbec thrives in Argentina thanks to ideal climatic conditions and the rich diversity of terroirs,” Kaiken winemaker Gustavo Hörmann said. “At Kaiken, we have vineyards in various regions of Mendoza, allowing us to produce malbecs with distinct and unique profiles.”

While malbec has become the flagbearer of Argentine red wines, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and pinot noir are other red wine grapes that have taken to the diverse terroir that includes untold numbers of alluvial soil types, elevation influences and dramatic diurnal shifts.

“Our goal is to transform each bunch of grapes, carefully cultivated at a specific location and altitude, into a wine that authentically expresses its origin,” said Pilar Arancio, the trade marketing lead for Grupo Peñaflor for North America. “We focus on preserving the fruit and its natural character, maintaining an optimal acid balance. This balance is the key to creating a wine that invites enjoyment, whether by the glass or by the bottle, and that pairs perfectly with every meal.”

As varied as the terroir from which the wines come are the price tags on Argentine wines. The top two wines from this report, for example, are the Trapiche Iscay 2020, which hails from Mendoza and costs $110, and the Trivento Maximum Red Blend Reserve 2022, also from Mendoza and only $11.

Taste them blind, one after the other and gauge which one has a triple-digit price tag and which is about the price of two cups of coffee at Starbucks. They’re both awesome, memorable and unique in their own way.

“The creation of Iscay was a team project aimed at highlighting the virtues of each variety involved,” said Arancio about the 2020 Iscay, a blend that is 50% malbec and 50% cab franc. “Iscay means ‘two’ in Quechua, the native language of the Andes, and represents the union of two elements: viticulture, which encompasses the interaction between terroir and vine, and oenology, which combines science and art.”

Trivento winemaker Maxi Ortiz said, “While Trivento is best known for our various expressions of monovarietal malbec, we also recognize the extraordinary ways in which malbec can shine when blended with other varieties. A blend of 50% cabernet sauvignon and 50% malbec, the Maximum Red Blend strikes a harmonious balance – the structure and dark fruit flavors of cabernet sauvignon complement the floral characteristics and vibrancy of malbec, resulting in a wine of depth and complexity. I find that this 50/50 blend allows each variety to express their unique characteristics without overpowering one another.”

Because of the rising quality, the wine world has taken notice of the distinct wines Argentina has produced. Kaiken was named New World Producer of the Year by the Sommelier Wine Awards.

At Kaiken, something good did come out of COVID-19: Disobedience, from the collaboration with Argentine chef Francis Mallmann. With creative minds shackled by the pandemic, the spare time led to a great wine.

“The name Disobedience reflects Francis’s unique personality and the unconventional approach behind the wine’s creation,” Hörmann said. “Each vintage, we start with a blank canvas, sampling numerous wines and blending them without following strict guidelines or patterns. This free-form approach allows us to create a wine that’s as bold and expressive as it is balanced and approachable. Our aim is to craft the best red wine we can, one that embodies both complexity and simplicity.”

As Kaiken’s flagship wine, Mai is another of the top wines tasted here. Hailing from old vines, Mai is a bridge to crowd-pleasing, fruit-forward wines that still cling to classic, rustic charm.

“Kaiken Mai 2021 holds a special place in our hearts as it represents the first ‘Icon’ wine of our winery,” Hörmann said. “Since its inaugural vintage, Mai has been a pure and authentic expression of the unique terroir of our century-old vineyard in Vistalba, planted in 1910.”

• James Nokes has been tasting, touring and collecting in the wine world for several years. Email him at jamesnokes25@yahoo.com.

IN A GIVING MOOD?

It’s National Adoption month, and Adam Lee, the super talented man of all things California pinot noir, is doing his part to contribute. Adopted in 1964, Lee found out years later that his birth mother checked in with the agency regarding his well-being.

The story came full circle 39 years later, when Lee adopted his daughter, Amber Rose Lee, who just turned 21. To support the Dave Thomas Foundation for Adoption, Lee scoured his cellar and found “orphan bottles,” wines in short supply that couldn’t make up a full case. They’re all at least 20% off, and 10% of the proceeds go to the foundation. Purchase 24 bottles for free shipping.

Visit www.adamleewine.com – and do so quickly, as quantities are very limited.

From now through Dec. 31, any Franciscan Estate, Hahn Wines and William Hill Estate Winery wines purchased will give consumers a choice: $2 off the wine or $2 donated to Feeding America. The three wineries and other Gallo brands are donating $150,000 to the country’s largest hunger-relief organization as well.

TASTING NOTES: ARGENTINA

Argento Single Vineyard, Finca Altamira Mendoza Malbec 2021 ($32): Cured meats, tanned leather and dried herbs on the nose, flavors of sweet cherry, iron shavings and cracked pepper emerge.

Doña Paula Altitude Series Mendoza 1050 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($25): Red fruits, spice rack, a silky mouthfeel and well-integrated tannins make this a crowd-pleasing, fruit-forward cabernet.

Doña Paula Seleccion de Bodega Malbec 2020 ($75): Dark purple in the glass, so concentrated light won’t pass through. A feral richness in the wine; blackberry fruit, chunky tannins with coffee grinds, wild game, red meat notes and an iron-like minerality.

Kaiken Ultra Mendoza Chardonnay 2022 ($30): Tropical fruits on the nose and in the flavor profile. Beaming with energy, there’s a mouthful of peach, pineapple and mango but a round vanilla bean note on the finish.

Kaiken Disobedience Red Blend 2020 ($32): A collaboration with chef and restaurateur Francis Mallmann and Kaiken. A cabernet, malbec and merlot blend that might be the best value among all the wines tasted. Black fruit flavors, dusty cocoa and milk chocolate. Great structure in the tannins and tiny chocolate chip flavors wrapped up by a sage and rosemary herbal tone.

Kaiken “Mai” Malbec 2021 ($90): A crowd-pleasing red with raspberry compote, dry tannins and a little cocoa powder on the finish. Classically styled.

Luigi Bosca De Sangre Malbec D.O.C. Lujan De Cuyo Malbec 2022 ($30): Wild game, dried violets and cardamom on the nose with plum and blackberry flavors.

Mascota, Unanime “Signature” Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($39): Loads of ripe black fruit, currant and cigar wrapper rest on a bed of very streamlined tannins.

Mascota, Unanime “Signature” Malbec 2021 ($40): There’s smoky cherry on the nose, bing cherry, charred rosemary, ground nutmeg and a touch of tobacco on the finish.

Trapiche Iscay Malbec Cabernet Franc 2020 ($110): The cabernet franc displays aromas of black fruits, a balsamic touch and silky tannin that harmonizes perfectly with the malbec to deliver an exquisite, full-bodied wine. The wine bursts with complex aromas of blueberries, mature red fruits, tobacco, violets, followed by subtle notes of spice and a lingering finish.

Trapiche, Tesoro, Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($14.99): A high-elevation gem with rich blackberry, currant, hints of mocha and well-integrated tannins.

Trapiche, Tesoro, Malbec 2020 ($14.99): A touch of smoked cherry, charred meat and dried sage permeate the nose and run through the flavor profile.

Trapiche, Gran Medalla, Chardonnay 2023 ($25): Green apple, stone fruit, honeysuckle, toasty brioche and hints of almonds.

Trivento Maximum Red Blend Reserve Mendoza 2022 ($11): A pop of juicy black fruit with tannins that weave their way in with cedar box and cracked black pepper. 50% cabernet sauvignon and 50% malbec.