Uncorked: Italy home to broadest palette of indigenous grapes

A case of mistaken identity at San Leonardo has worked out brilliantly.

Ownership of the property by the Gonzaga family dates back to the 1700s. But it wasn’t until recently that the family realized the specifics of its flagship blend.

With the widest collection of indigenous grapes in the world and a gentle climate where vines transplanted from other countries easily can adapt, Italy has a wine for everyone. The tasting notes go deep this week on red and white wines from the country that is the globe’s most prolific wine producer.

In 1215, San Leonardo started as a monastery. By the 1700s, the Gonzaga family took ownership of the property and offered food and overnight accommodations to travelers. San Leonardo owner Anselmo Guerrieri Gonzaga is charmed by the history of the estate.

“When you enter San Leonardo, you immediately feel as though you’ve stepped into a world where time slows down, and values often forgotten come to the forefront,” Gonzaga said. “The beauty of nature has always been very important to my father and me. My father, in particular, dedicated his life to creating what he called ‘the garden of vineyards.’ Today, you can admire not only vineyards in perfect condition but also a collection of thousands of roses that embrace not only the vineyards but also the gardens and vegetable patches.”

Gonzaga traces the roots of carmenere back to his grandfather, who wanted to test out the grape variety in the estate in the late 19th century. In the late 1940s, it gained popularity in the Triveneto region, and wineries started planting what they believed was cabernet franc.

In 1989, his father wanted to plant more cabernet franc. After Professor Attilio Scienza and former winemaker Giacomo Tachis investigated, they discovered their “cabernet franc” was actually carmenere.

“This grape has always been, and still is, the cornerstone of our production,” Gonzaga said. “The element that gives our wines their deepest identity. Today, we are dedicated to developing a clonal selection, the result of five years of work, to preserve the unique character of this grape and ensure its legacy for the future.”

With blue fruit and coffee on the nose, the San Leonardo Villa Gresti IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2019 ($40) developed flavors of plum, cassis, vanilla and cigar-wrapper spice.

The San Leonardo Terre di San Leonardo IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2020 ($25) had rich black plum, wild game and dried violets on the nose, with plum, black currant, licorice and notes of singed rosemary. The blend was 60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% carmenere and 10% merlot.

Stefano Inama has found carmenere has thrived in Veneto’s Colli Berici DOC, as well. The Bradisismo Cabernet Colli Berici DOC ($45) had flavors of black currant, black cherry, vanilla, plum, with a wild fennel note on the finish.

It’s common for cabernet to be harvested two weeks before the late-ripening carmenere. Inama deftly has pulled off a blend where each variety maintains its identity – the spicy, playful nature of carmenere being a perfect foil for the structure of cabernet.

“It is precisely the balance between the spiciness of carmenere and the structure of cabernet that makes this wine unique,” Inama said. “The final blend is determined through extensive tasting sessions in the winery, always seeking the right compromise between aromatic intensity, cherry notes, tannins and freshness. We aim to preserve carmenere’s identity without losing the elegance and depth that cabernet can offer.”

Illaria Felluga showed the versatility of Italy’s terroir with an actual cabernet franc. Russiz Superiore Collio Cabernet Franc 2022 DOC ($25) had thyme, sage and cracked black pepper on the nose, fruit flavors of black cherry with bell pepper, and loamy earth emerging on a medium-bodied red.

Plantings of the variety might be limited, but the wine has a distinct characteristic – an unmistakable profile that highlights the best of cab franc.

“It’s true that in the past that cabernet franc was not very common in the Collio region,” Felluga said. “In fact, there was a time when merlot and cabernet sauvignon dominated the scene when it came to red wines in this area.

“However, little by little, cabernet franc has been gaining popularity and is now widely used in Bordeaux-style blends by several producers in our region,” she said. “We have always produced cabernet franc, and our expression of this grape variety stands out slightly from the classic cabernet franc. It exhibits fewer green notes compared to the traditional version, and has more pronounced spicy aromas, as well as prominent fruit notes.”

• James Nokes has been tasting, touring and collecting in the wine world for several years. Email him at jamesnokes25@yahoo.com.

TASTING NOTES

Assuli Baglio Sicily Insolia Carinda 2022 ($19.99): Flighty citrus notes combine with macerated peach and flaky sea salt on the finish for a white that needs to be paired with garlic-and-butter shrimp.

Barco Reale di Carmignano 2022 ($19): Youthful and exuberant with black cherry, peppercorn, tanned leather aromas and flavors. The tobacco note rises up like a walk through a humidor.

Capezzana Toscana Trebbiano 2023 ($32): Peaches and seashells on the nose, there’s peach flavors and fresh-cut basil notes on the finish.

Castello di Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2021 ($19.99): From the Frescobaldi family, always one of my favorite wines from Chianti Rufina – juicy black cherry, leather and an absolute pleasure to drink.

Coppo Monteriolo Piemonte Chardonnay 2023 ($50): Pineapple, mango and vanilla flavors over a toasty, charming, almond-cookie trait.

Ghiaie della Furba Toscana IGT 2021 ($75): Fully formed with beautiful tannic structure, currant, menthol, mint, blackberry and a wild fennel pollen note on the finish – this is excellent. 40% cabernet sauvignon, 35% syrah and 25% merlot.

Marchesi di Gresy Langhe Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($26): Springtime rain, green melon, tropical notes on the nose, there’s parsley, dried apricot, papaya and stone fruit flavors with an herbaceous edge on the finish.

San Polo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019 ($75): An elegant wine with cherry, raspberry and strawberry all mingling together. The fruit drives the wine, but there’s a touch of black pepper and cedar on the extra-long finish.

Tenuta Regaleali Lamuri, Sicily DOC Nero d’Avola 2020 ($20): Plum, dark chocolate, graphite flavors come across as bold and persistent. Plenty ripe with firm tannins. One of the best values in this report.

Tenuta Sallier de La Tour Monreale DO La Monaca 2020 ($41): Blackberry, toasty caramel and dark chocolate on the nose with blueberry, blackberry, coffee and anise flavors on the finish.

Trefiano Carmignano 2020 ($79): A dense core of currant, black berry and iron and ground espresso hanging over structured tannins. 80% sangiovese, 10% cabernet sauvignon and 10% canaiolo.

Villa di Capezzana di Carmignano DOCG 2022 ($32): There are blackberry compote and exotic spice on the nose. Flavors of cranberry, tart black cherry, graphite and baker’s chocolate are revealed.

Villa di Capezzana di Carmignano DOCG “10 Anni” ($67): Fully mature with plum, cedar, forest floor and cinnamon stick. 80% sangiovese, 20% cabernet sauvignon.

Vintage Tunina Venezia Giulia 2022 ($84): Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and local varieties such as ribolla gialla, malvasia and picolit. There were jasmine flower, lime zest and honeysuckle flavors with a balanced approach that presented the right touch of mouthfeel and acidic pop.