Ice climbing at Starved Rock State Park

Note: Icefalls have not fully formed as of 1/10/25, IDNR will announce via the Starved Rock and Matthiessen State Parks Facebook page when conditions have been deemed suitable by local experts.

Starved Rock State Park is widely known for being a captivating destination throughout the winter months, offering unique experiences you won’t find during any other season. As the temperatures drop, the park’s waterfalls begin freezing into stunning ice formations, creating a winter wonderland for properly equipped hikers. For seasoned climbers, Starved Rock offers thrilling ice-climbing opportunities, but be sure to throughly review safety guidelines and conditions before attempting this adventurous activity.

After a number of weeks of freezing, thawing and refreezing, four of Starved Rock’s popular winter photo-ops will transform into a must-visit destination for avid climbers across the Midwest. While ice columns have not yet fully formed, veteran climbers are accessing the ice daily. Follow the Starved Rock and Matthiessen State Park Facebook page for official announcements on the official season opening – until such time, ice climbing is strictly prohibited.

Since the early 1980s, Starved Rock Country has been a leading wintertime attraction for outdoor adventurers looking to challenge Mother Nature. Every year, hundreds of experienced climbers flock to Starved Rock State Park to spend a day scaling enormous frozen waterfalls with little more than an anchor line, an ice ax and a helmet.

People should thoroughly review the Illinois Department of Natural Resources ice-climbing fact sheet for more information on the check-in protocol (the brochure can be found at tinyurl.com/3tzud4na). While only experienced climbers should attempt such an activity, all guests with proper footwear (crampons or Yaktrax) are encouraged to make the icy hike down to the falls to spectate the climbing.

Starved Rock’s ice falls include:

La Salle Canyon – A long curtain-style fall, offering a milder climbing experience.

Ottawa Canyon – Often one of the widest falls in the park, also one of the first to form in the winter.

Wildcat Canyon – Easily the tallest fall permitted for climbing, a true highlight of the park for climbing enthusiasts.

Climbers are required to bring their own equipment and have prior experience ice climbing, or have a chartered, experienced guide. All ice climbing is done at the climber’s risk, and they are required to sign in at the park’s self-check-in station before their climb, and once again upon exit – to ensure all parties are accounted for. Due to safety and liability concerns, ice climbers are prohibited from providing lessons to the public on park premises.

The self-serve check-in sheet is conveniently located outside the park’s maintenance building across the road from the Visitor Center. Sign-in sheets, as well as rules and regulations, will be posted on the wall near the entrance to the maintenance building.

Scaling these frozen falls is not for novices. Here are some fast facts experienced climbers should know before they consider ice climbing at Starved Rock:

• The Department of Natural Resources does not test the integrity of the ice; it is entirely up to the climbers to determine suitability before their climb.
  
• Solo climbing is expressly prohibited; you must climb with at least one partner.
  
• Ice climbing is only allowed between 7 a.m. and dusk at the park; all climbers must be off the trail before dark.
  
• Mixed-surface climbing or any other form of rock climbing or scaling is banned in the park. Starved Rock’s canyons are made out of incredibly fragile sandstone. These surfaces are not suitable for, and can be permanently damaged by, climbing equipment.
  
• All equipment, such as riggings, ice cleats, crampons, ice picks, rope and other harmful supplies, must touch the ice/ice falls only.
  
• Avoid tying your rope directly to sandstone or trees.
  
• Do not wear your crampons on the the wooden bridges, walkways or exposed sandstone.
  

Ice climbing is a serious endeavor and should not be undertaken without prior training and guidance from veteran climbers. Be sure to follow the Starved Rock and Matthiessen State Parks page on Facebook to learn when the conditions will be suitable for ice climbing.

Upon the start of season, note the integrity of the falls changes from day to day – experienced climbers are encouraged to use their discretion before attempting to climb. Detailed info can be found at: tinyurl.com/3tzud4na